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BELOW ARE SOME CORRECTIONS THAT NEED TO BE MADE
BELOW ARE SOME CORRECTIONS THAT NEED TO BE MADE
March 6, 2011 - Strawberries n Cream
Page 4 corrections - The pattern indicates you will be making 20 - 9 Patch blocks for the table runner... Correction is 16 - 9 Patch blocks (8 on each end).
It also instructs the center piece to be cut 12" wide and it should be 12 1/2" wide.
So sorry for the error!! Please call if you have questions.
Page 4 corrections - The pattern indicates you will be making 20 - 9 Patch blocks for the table runner... Correction is 16 - 9 Patch blocks (8 on each end).
It also instructs the center piece to be cut 12" wide and it should be 12 1/2" wide.
So sorry for the error!! Please call if you have questions.
April 1, 2011 - Chip Off The Old Block -
Cutting Directions for Light Stripped Border-
Cutting chart: Assorted Backgrounds (lights): once you have cut all pieces as directed in the pattern, cut your remaining lights into 2" strips. Then follow instructions from step 3 in the pattern direction section. Thanks!
Cutting Directions for Light Stripped Border-
Cutting chart: Assorted Backgrounds (lights): once you have cut all pieces as directed in the pattern, cut your remaining lights into 2" strips. Then follow instructions from step 3 in the pattern direction section. Thanks!
August 27, 2011
Ticking Pillow Pin Cushion - Buggy Barn Class
Supplies:
2 - 5" squares of fabric - ticking stripe
Long doll needle
2 - 4 ½” squares of muslin (lining)
1 button - approximately 1" across
Quilting Thread or #8 or #12 perle cotton
Needle and thread to match fabric
2 small wool strips - 10" long and 3/4" - 7/8" wide (Wool Selvage works great)
Stuffing (crushed pecan shells)
1 small piece of green wool cut into the shape of a leaf
Pliers - sometimes needed to pull needle through pin cushion middle
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·Place your 2 - 4 ½” square pieces of muslin together and stitch up 3 sides(use a small stitch on your sewing machine) - on 4th side leave a 1 ½” to 2” opening. Turn right sides out and fill tightly with crushed pecan shells. Using a small funnel or spoon works best. Whip stitch the opening closed - nice and tight.
·Place your 2 - 5" square pieces of ticking right sides together. Make one square's stripes go horizontal and the opposite square vertical just for a different look. Sew 3 sides closed with a 1/4" seam. Turn right side out. On the 4th side - insert the filled muslin cushion. Fold in each side of the striped fabric ¼” and stitch closed. Work the pecan shells to each corner - leaving an indent in the middle - making room for your button. Make sure your pin cushion looks square and is not lop sided on any one side or corner.
·Thread a long doll needle with strong thread (quilting thread or perle cotton). I used #8 perle cotton and doubled it on my needle. Tie a large knot at the end of your thread. Wrap your colored wool strips around the middle - like a package. Trim excess wool as required - being sure to have each piece overlap in the middle of the pillow.
·Insert the doll needle into the middle of the pillow - at the intersection - through all pieces of wool - pulling as tight as you can - through the center and out the bottom of the pillow... go back and forth from the top to the bottom several times with your threaded needle...being sure to pull as tight as you can. Stitch a knot on the top of the pillow (where all of your wool pieces intersect). Add your leaf by stitching to the center of your pillow. Add your button using your doll needle and go through the pillow - through the bottom and back up through the top into the button (2 or 4 holes). Once your button is sewn on nice and tight and your leaf is in the position of your choice.... knot off and cut your thread.
You now have a gorgeous pin cushion! Enjoy!
Ticking Pillow Pin Cushion - Buggy Barn Class
Supplies:
2 - 5" squares of fabric - ticking stripe
Long doll needle
2 - 4 ½” squares of muslin (lining)
1 button - approximately 1" across
Quilting Thread or #8 or #12 perle cotton
Needle and thread to match fabric
2 small wool strips - 10" long and 3/4" - 7/8" wide (Wool Selvage works great)
Stuffing (crushed pecan shells)
1 small piece of green wool cut into the shape of a leaf
Pliers - sometimes needed to pull needle through pin cushion middle
____________________________________________________
·Place your 2 - 4 ½” square pieces of muslin together and stitch up 3 sides(use a small stitch on your sewing machine) - on 4th side leave a 1 ½” to 2” opening. Turn right sides out and fill tightly with crushed pecan shells. Using a small funnel or spoon works best. Whip stitch the opening closed - nice and tight.
·Place your 2 - 5" square pieces of ticking right sides together. Make one square's stripes go horizontal and the opposite square vertical just for a different look. Sew 3 sides closed with a 1/4" seam. Turn right side out. On the 4th side - insert the filled muslin cushion. Fold in each side of the striped fabric ¼” and stitch closed. Work the pecan shells to each corner - leaving an indent in the middle - making room for your button. Make sure your pin cushion looks square and is not lop sided on any one side or corner.
·Thread a long doll needle with strong thread (quilting thread or perle cotton). I used #8 perle cotton and doubled it on my needle. Tie a large knot at the end of your thread. Wrap your colored wool strips around the middle - like a package. Trim excess wool as required - being sure to have each piece overlap in the middle of the pillow.
·Insert the doll needle into the middle of the pillow - at the intersection - through all pieces of wool - pulling as tight as you can - through the center and out the bottom of the pillow... go back and forth from the top to the bottom several times with your threaded needle...being sure to pull as tight as you can. Stitch a knot on the top of the pillow (where all of your wool pieces intersect). Add your leaf by stitching to the center of your pillow. Add your button using your doll needle and go through the pillow - through the bottom and back up through the top into the button (2 or 4 holes). Once your button is sewn on nice and tight and your leaf is in the position of your choice.... knot off and cut your thread.
You now have a gorgeous pin cushion! Enjoy!
Tips For Using Silk Thread With Wool Applique
Use Heat n Bond Lite or Steam a Seam as your adhesive when securing your wool shape to your background. Prevents fraying! Use dots of fabric glue where needed.
Different wools have different weaves - plaids, hounds tooth, etc. If they are too stringy or fray too much, try washing them in hot, soapy water. Be sure to spin out excess water. Throw in the dryer for just a short time. The longer in the dryer - the tighter the fibers will become. The wool will become very thick and may be too difficult to work with in the applique process.
If raveling does occur, use a “fray check” product to minimize fraying.
Wool used in applique projects - does not have to be 100%.
If you have difficulty using a thimble, try a leather pad. They are much easier to manage.
If your fingers on the underside of your work get sore from the needle, use the plastic disk pads.
If you have difficulty hanging onto the needle, use a finger cot on your index finger.
Your thread length should not exceed the length of your forearm.
Always CUT your thread - do not tear, break or pull apart.
The end you cut from the spool is the end you thread through the eye of the needle and knot. It causes less knotting and tangling while sewing - due to the way it’s fed onto the spool.
When layering your wool pieces onto your background - work on one end/side at a time.
Straight stitch or zigzag around the edge of your background prior to stitching your applique pieces. This will eliminate fraying.
When stitching, take small stitches - the looser the weave on the wool, the more stitches you will need.
Tie your silk thread into a knot on the eye of the needle. The thread is so fine - the knot will go right through your wool and background easily.
When making small projects (table runners, candle mats) use a smaller binding (1 ¾” or 2” cut). You want the size of the binding to work well with the size of the project.
Always have good small, sharp-tipped scissors to snip away any excess frayed threads or fuzzy wool tips.
Always take an extra stitch at the tip of a pointed shape and at the “v” of a shape.
When pulling your silk thread through your work, pull it towards you. It will curl the wool under more - giving a smoother edge.
Save every little bit of your scrap wool. Peel and paper from the back and store in a knee high stocking. When you get a good amount - tie the open end into a tight knot and wash (with soap) with your colored/dark clothes. Dry in the dryer until the major wetness is gone. Keep adding scraps, washing, drying…. Before you know it - you will have a good size clump of “felted” wool. Shape into a pin cushion and enjoy!!
